Travel Note

Okinawa

Familiar, Slower, and Hard to Replace

Okinawa feels familiar—but not in the way you expect. It’s Japan, but it doesn’t feel like mainland Japan. The edges are softer. The people are more open. Things move a little slower. For me, it felt like being somewhere I understood… without needing to fully explain it.

And then there are the beaches.

Clear water, quiet stretches, and just enough people to remind you you’re not alone—but never enough to ruin it. Outside of a small tourist strip, most of the island feels untouched. That balance is what makes this place hard to replace.

Arriving in Okinawa

You’ll fly into Naha Airport (OKA).

It’s a small airport, but it moves efficiently. Immigration is straightforward.

  • US travelers → visa on arrival (up to 90 days)
  • Easy entry, minimal friction

It doesn’t feel like arriving in a major city. It feels like arriving somewhere more contained—more manageable.

Getting Around Okinawa

This is where Okinawa separates itself from the rest of Japan. You can’t rely on trains the way you would in Tokyo or Osaka. There’s a subway but it’s not very comprehensive. Here’s a look:

Rent a Car (Do this)

If you take one thing from this guide, it’s this. You need a car.

  • Beaches are spread out
  • Public transport is limited
  • You’ll want the freedom to explore

To rent:

  • Get an International Driving Permit (AAA, ~$20)
  • Book through a local rental agency (not US chains)

I made the mistake of going with a familiar US brand. No pickup, no clear process, ended up making an international call from a payphone with luggage in hand. Not how you want to start your trip.

Driving in Okinawa

It takes a minute to adjust.

  • Drive on the left
  • Steering wheel on the right
  • Muscle memory will mess with you

I turned on my windshield wipers every time I meant to signal. But here’s the thing—traffic is light. Spped is lower. Mistakes are more forgiving. You settle into it quickly.

Portable WiFi (Highly Recommended)

Get one at the airport.

  • Easy setup
  • English-speaking staff
  • Helps with navigation immediately

This is what made driving manageable for me. Worth it.

How Okinawa Is Laid Out

Okinawa isn’t a dense city—it’s a spread-out island. That changes how you experience it.

Naha (City Base)

This is where you’ll likely stay first.

  • Close to the airport
  • Restaurants, shops, convenience
  • Easy starting point

But you don’t come to Okinawa for the city.

The Coastlines

This is where the island opens up.

  • Beaches everywhere
  • Some crowded, many not
  • You can always just drive to the next one

That freedom—being able to leave one beach and find another—is what makes Okinawa feel different.

Outer Islands

If you have time, don’t skip these. To get there:

  • Head to Tomari Port
  • Take a ferry (book early for express routes)

The beaches out here are on another level. Quieter. Cleaner. More remote.

Where to Stay in Okinawa

This depends on how you want to experience the island.

  • Naha → convenience, short stays
  • Along the coast → better access to beaches
  • Further out → quieter, more secluded

If you’re staying longer, getting out of the city makes a big difference.

Things to Do in Okinawa

Okinawa isn’t about checking off landmarks. It’s about moving—slowly.

  • Beach hop until you find your spot
  • Drive the coastline without a plan
  • Take a ferry out to smaller islands
  • Spend time in the water
  • Watch the day slow down

Some of the best moments here come from doing less.

What to Eat in Okinawa

Okinawa isn’t quite Japan when it comes to food either. It has its own identity. Similar ingredients—but different outcomes.

Try:

  • Okinawa soba
  • Rafute (braised pork belly)
  • Taco rice (you’ll see it everywhere)
  • Local sides like sea grapes

You’ll still find familiar Japanese food—but it’s worth leaning into what’s local here.

If you want a deeper dive:
👉 /explore/category/okinawa

Practical Tips

  • English is more common here (US military presence)
  • Some places are still local-only—don’t take it personally
  • Parking at beaches can be limited
  • Not all beaches have lifeguards → be aware

Final Thoughts

Okinawa doesn’t feel like the rest of Japan. It feels more open. More relaxed. More human. If you’ve been to the Big Island of Hawaii, it’s like that, but a lot less driving and no volcano. For me, it was familiar—but easier. Like stepping into a version of Japan where the edges are softer and the expectations are lower. Then of course are the beaches. You come for them. But you end up staying for everything else. And when you leave, it doesn’t feel like you’ve checked off a destination.

It feels like you’re leaving something you’d come back to.